Rishikesh – The Valley of Saints

So, I went to India for the second time recently – this time to the Uttarakhand region in the far North of India. Due to the location which is so far into the Himalayan region and hundreds of kilometers from New Delhi where we landed, it had proved to be one of the most difficult travel trips that I’ve ever had to plan thus far.

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We took a bus from the Inter State Bus Terminal in New Delhi all the way to Rishikesh at the foothill of Himalayas. It was quite a long ride – not because of the distance but more of the slow traffic. We arrived in Rishikesh to a heavy rain so we had to run around looking for a hotel in the rain. I stayed at a super budget hotel called Hotel Digvijay near the bus station while the ladies stayed at some not-so-budget hotel called Amaris further away from there.

Rishikesh that I found out is quite a big town. Due to its strategic location and connectivity, it is more like the getaway to the Himalayan region from the Indian side.

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The bus station at Rishikesh

The plan was to stay there overnight and took an early-morning bus across the lower mountains of Himalayas to a little town called Joshimath which would take us much nearer to all the intended destinations – namely Badrinath and Govinghat. Govinghat is the starting point of our trek to Hemkund Sahib and of course – the much anticipated Valley of Flowers.

But to our horror, news of terrible landslides near the town of Chamoli came to us like a burning splash of acid. Big chunks of the road to Joshimath had chipped off and fell straight down to the roaring Ganges due to the incessant monsoon rains which made the road temporarily impassable. It was all over the news and it really worried us – thinking how we had come that far towards what was supposed to be an epic adventure. But then, I looked at it all as part of the adventure.

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News of landslides and casualties are all over the news

I found myself constantly following the development of the restoration works through social media. It was one of those times when social media came in so handy and useful. I even sent a series of tweets to some of the people that were trapped and could not get out of Joshimath due to the landslides. We decided to stay back at Rishikesh for another night while closely following the development of the restoration works on site.

Well, our trip into the Himalayas might have to be delayed but in hindsight it gave us a chance to tour around Rishikesh and see what this beautiful town had to offer.

Rishikesh has over the years gained its title as the Yoga Capital of the World. They are so many Yoga activities going on in this town and people actually come from all around the world to learn more about Yoga there. Yoga has also become a billion-dollar business in Rishikesh with so many Yoga schools and Yoga-associated retreat centers (ashrams) springing up here and there. Of course hotels – both luxury and budget alike – keep increasing in number to accommodate for the needs of more and more pilgrims who come to Rishikesh every year.

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The members of English rock band The Beatles are said to have spent quite a bit of their time to learn about meditation in Rishikesh. Perhaps, it was how it first gained its worldwide recognition.  They even wrote quite a number of songs while they were there.

We made our time to check out the famous hanging bridges of Rishikesh. We joined so many hundreds others to walk from one bridge to the other while taking in the beauty of the Ganges riverside view. It really was a very relaxing walk with so many things to see along the way.

To tell the truth, it was my very first close encounter with world-famous Ganges River – a river that I’ve heard so much about which is considered a holy river in Hinduism. I was always imagining that I’d see it for the first time in Varanasi but of course God always had His own plans for me. Ganges river is quite smaller than I had imagined. But then, it is also known to be so unpredictable. The water level can rise up so suddenly without warning and a lot of people had fallen victim to this unpredictability.

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We wrapped up the day by walking from the second bridge to a restaurant called Bistro Nirvana. The restaurant served both local and international dishes. Quite true to most of the reviews about Bistro Nirvana that I read on Trip Advisor, the food was marvelous (at least the one that I ordered). But I think what made Bistro Nirvana special is the ambiance and surrounding which is very much relaxing, away from the noisy streets of Rishikesh. We ended up spending a few hours there.

Quite in tandem with its status as a holy city, Rishikesh has long been declared as a meat and alcohol free city. But of course where there is demand there will be supply. It is not easy to implement when the demand is still there. A friendly local guy that I had seated next to on the bus cheekily told me where I could find beer in Rishikesh. “The cops might come up to arrest you but you can always give them money and they’ll go away” he said before bursting into a reverberating laugh.

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And so is the case for the vegetarian status. One of the Tuk Tuk drivers (or whatever it is called in India. I’m quite sure they call it Tuk Tuk too) took us to a non-vegetarian restaurant not too far from the hotel that I stayed in. They foods are quite expensive but they come in big portions so the prices are quite justifiable. Their chicken curry turned out to be one of the tastiest foods that I’ve had while I was in India.

But then – thanks to the vegetarian status, I could see how animals roam happily and freely all over Rishikesh without having to worry about being netted in and slaughtered. I mean, I was queuing up to buy bus tickets to Joshimath literally with a bunch of pigs. They’d come and smell at my feet as if there was something for them in my shoes. Damn. LoL.

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Cows always have the rights of way in Rishikesh

When there was no sign of the road to be restored any time soon, we decided to just go and see how things would be for us along the way. Our mission was to reach Joshimath before anything else. But of course with the restoration works still ongoing, there was no way of telling if we could even accomplish that. Even worse, we might be stranded up there in the middle of nowhere – and getting stranded in the Himalayas was the last thing that we wanted to experience in the North India.

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A Fishing Trip to Mengalum Island

So I went to a fishing trip in what was intended to be part of my bucket list. I first heard about ‘mencandat sotong’ when I went to Kelantan about 5 years ago. It is some kind of fishing activity in Terengganu – except that it aims to catch squid instead of fish. I was told that it has its own season which runs from April to June. It is when squid are most plentiful.

They are said come near to the boats in hordes because they are attracted to the lights – which makes catching them very much easy. So, I started to come up with a plan with a group of friends – mostly my colleagues – but then there would always be a problem that forced us to abandon our plan every time. A few years on and there was still no mencandat sotong trip.

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At Kota Kinabalu wet market in the wee hours to buy fishing baits

When I expressed my frustration to a group of Sabahan friends who are mostly fishing enthusiasts, they laughed out loud saying that this mencandat sotong is not exclusive to Terengganu alone – but it can also be done in many parts of Malaysia including Sabah – “except we don’t call it mencandat here. We simply call it memancing sotong said one of the friends. “In fact, we can easily get a big bucket of squid almost in no time before we move on to doing what we are there to do which is to fish. Sometimes we want the challenges. When you are there during the season, catching the squid will be too easy it actually bores you because there are just too many of them!” he exclaimed.

And before I knew, we already came up with a plan. The date was set – and I soon found myself getting on board of as fishing boat at Kota Kinabalu harbor together with a dozen others. It was my first time getting beyond the islands of Taman Tunku Abdul Rahman – namely Manukan, Mamutik and Gaya – and it really felt great to see the islands from the other side. I even saw a light house on the far corner of Gaya Island – something that I didn’t know existed. And of course – over there across the distance is the towering Mount Kinabalu – a constant reminder that I was there in my own homeland. Heh.

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It took us about 3 hours to go to the intended destination – nearby an isolated island called Mengalum – before the boat shuddered to a stop and the guys began to cast their baits into the emerald sea water. 3 hours into the open sea – and I felt like I was totally in the middle of nowhere. Without any mobile phone coverage, I felt totally disconnected from the outside world – something that I had wanted to be in for quite a long time anyway.

To tell the truth, I didn’t do any fishing. I only wanted to be there as part of the hilarity – to see how these guys do what they had paid some RM250 each for. It puzzles me how some people would spend quite a big chuck of their fortune to pay for fishing boats – and spend quite a lot of their time to do fishing – when they can easily buy fish at any of the wet markets. What puzzles me most is the fact that they wouldn’t really get many fishes – in fact some of them would go home empty-handed even after spending the whole day fishing. And even more puzzling is that – they’d keep doing it. People keep comparing fishing with golfing. These two activities are known to be very addictive to some people. Heh.

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What worried me most when I was about to get on board was the possibility of a seasickness – something that I knew I would most likely experience. I’ve been to a boat trip quite several times – especially when I was based in Sandakan when I had to go to remote islands to check out what I was paid to check out. I’d spend many hours on the boat but then being on a moving boat might be different from on a stalled one – or so I was told. So, as precautionary, I took in an anti-seasick pill a couple of hours before getting on board. Then I took in a few more when we were already in the sea.

But then, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. I really enjoyed my time in the middle of the sea, to watch the sun come up from one side til it disappears on the other. It really is therapeutic. Sometimes the sea became quite turbulent so the boat rocked more violently than usual – but then it was part of the fun. It was quite a challenge to move around especially if I wanted to move from one end to the other. My balancing skill was put to the test. LOL.

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My biggest challenge was probably the smell. Since it was a fishing boat, the smell wasn’t really a surprise but still it was quite unbearable. It also came from the fishes that they sliced up to be made as baits. Somehow they rotten up faster in the sea and you know how smelly rotten fishes can be. But I got used to it after a while.

Then the sun. Somehow it felt closer to the world when you are in the middle of the sea. It’s so hot and I can only be thankful that the bedroom with triple-decker beds was air-conditioned. Getting a nap wasn’t difficult at all despite the constant motion. I felt like a baby in a hanging cradle or something. Up and down I go – up and down I go. It was lullbying really.

Then the food. I was expecting that eating would be a problem when was in the middle of the sea. I mean, I was so worried that the motion sickness would take it all away from me including my appetite for food.  But it turned out that food never felt so tasty. It almost as good as eating in the middle of a forest when everything feels so delicious. But then, I was told that we need to be constantly full in the stomach to minimize the risk of getting sick. When they made the Sabahan traditional food called Hinava out of a very fresh Tuna, I swear to God I ate as much as 10 people could eat. It was so delicious!

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We’d move from one spot to another – mostly further and further into the sea that we had to travel 5 hours on our way back to KK. I was told that the lack of fish was mainly due to over-fishing and that the biggest culprit of all was the fish bombing activities that were quite prevalent in the past. I really think that every ocean is very much part of nature and you all know how nature works. If you treat her gently, she will give back generously but if you treat her badly, she’ll hold back and give you less. We humans will still be the losers.

One of the highlights was probably the sighting of dolphins. There were a group of them – moving around our boat and for a moment they kept ‘hovering around’ as if enjoying the attention and fascination towards them. Dolphins are certainly one of the most amazing creatures – not to mention the most intelligent as proven by many scientific researches. It really was a privilege to see them in the wild.

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But then – if there was one thing that quite disappointed me most was that – the squid did not turn up. I was told that the recent El-nino was probably the culprit. They did manage to catch a couple of squids but that was it. They ended up being used as baits as well. But then, to be fair, I did have loads of fun. I was there with friends – in the middle of nowhere – totally disconnected from the outside world. It gave us the rare opportunity to really be in that moment without being distracted by all the tele gadgets that for some time had been threatening to ‘take over’ our lives.

But then, I had long noticed that fishing is not really my thing. I am not quite fond of the idea of waiting through hours after hours just to get a handful of fishes – if any. But then, the idea of being afloat in the middle of the sea was quite something to me. It was very refreshing and therapeutic. It’s like being in a tub where you want to be with yourself – to be oblivious of the surrounding and forgetting everything that is happening out there – to be fully submerged to your own thoughts and mind – until the cold kicks in and you suddenly feel the rush to get out of there and return to reality.

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That was how I felt when I was there. The cold did kick in after awhile – and I knew I had to get out of there and return to the shores to face the reality – the reality of life. Heh.

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The Climb

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The Climb

I can almost see it
 That dream I am dreaming 
but there's a voice inside my head saying
 "You'll never reach it"

Every step I'm taking
 Every move I make feels
 Lost with no direction
 My faith is shaking

But I ..  gotta keep trying
 [Gotta] keep my head held high

Coz..

There's always gonna be another mountain
 I'm always gonna wanna make it move
 There’s always gonna be an uphill battle
 Sometimes I'm gonna have to lose

Ain't about how fast I get there
 Ain't about what's waiting on the other side
 It's the climb

The struggles I'm facing
 The chances I'm taking
 Sometimes might knock me down
 But no,  no I'm not breaking

I may not know it
 But these are the moments that
 I'm gonna remember most yeah
 Just gotta keep going

And I, I got to be strong
 Just keep pushing on

'Cause there's always gonna be another mountain
 I'm always gonna wanna make it move
 There’s always gonna be an uphill battle
 Sometimes I'm gonna have to lose

Ain't about how fast I get there
 Ain't about what's waiting on the other side
 It's the climb, yeah!
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