Back to India

So my job had required me to fly to India on the last week before Christmas, my very first travel trip out since the pandemic took the whole world by storm in the early year of 2020.

I took a flight from Kota Kinabalu to Kuala Lumpur at about 10pm on a Saturday night where I did a 5-hour transit before flying off to Chennai where I’d be spending another 5 hours before taking a domestic flight to Bangalore.  

Things were uneventful, except for the transits that we had to endure through and I had never liked transits, although they are unavoidable at times especially when they involve some budgeting and lack of flight options. If there was something that is worth mentioning about, it’d be the brand new airports of Chennai and Bangalore whose structural and architectural features had had me in awe.

Airports in India that I noticed would not allow anybody to go back out once you have already entered the terminal building so you’ll just have to make sure you have already done everything that you wanted to do outside of the building before making your way in. We encountered a little bit of problem when we wanted to wrap up our luggage and they wouldn’t allow us to go back out to the wrapping service which we found out quite too late was located outside of the terminal building. It took us the best persuasive skills before we were allowed to – but seriously it was not easy. India has some of the most disciplined and systematic systems in the world so it was not at all surprising that they’d stick to them no matter what.

The first thing that instantly surprised me the moment I set foot in Bangalore was the weather. Bangalore is located on the Southern half of India so I expected a sizzling hot weather. How wrong I was. The temperature must be around 23 degree Celsius during the day and it’d dip to 18 degree Celsius at night. Walking out in the open felt like walking in a spring season in Europe or something. It was almost illogical geographically, but I found myself so pleasantly surprised.

After doing what we had to do in Bangalore, we travelled about 3 hours on a mostly newly upgraded expressways to the city of Mysore in the far South of the state of Karnataka. That was when the real essence of the trip began. It really felt like a real road trip adventure. I couldn’t help but playing the song Jai Ho in my head while wheezing past a diversity of landscapes, vast farms, beautiful small towns and villages along the way.

Checking in at a hotel called Lok Sagar, Mysore that I found out is a melting pot of different cultures and religions. There were beautiful temples everywhere, then you’d see a mosque here and there, then churches with impressive structures and architectures. I had actually never heard of Mysore before then, but the guy that I was sitting next to on the flight from Kuala Lumpur to Chennai did mention about it as a place he recommended me to visit.

We went to a Hindu temple called Sri Chamundeshwari that sits atop a hill from where we could see almost the whole stretch of the city. The temple was packed with pilgrims and devotees who came in hordes, probably from all over India. There were large groups of school kids in uniforms – and some of them would come and take pictures with us for the obvious reason – we were different and there was no way we could walk around without looking different. We did a little bit of hiking to a spot from where we could see the whole stretch of the Mysore city. Our guide promised to take us back to the place at night when the whole city went alight but it never got done unfortunately.

We also travelled around 25km to the South East, to a place called Brindavan Gardens which is located on the brink of a massive lake called Krishna Raja Sagara (KRS). Brindavan Gardens itself is a strip of beautiful gardens which is separated from the lake by a massive dam called KRS dam. The dam was intended to irrigate water to agricultural areas and as a source of drink water to several major cities including Mysore itself and Bangalore – the capital city of Karnataka.

Not quiet in the mood of walking under the sizzling sun (unlike in Bangalore where the weather was cold), we rented a buggy car to take us around the garden. Since the garden is a government property, they buggy drivers didn’t really like the idea of us renting a whole car, but of course with a little bit of price negotiation, they finally gave in.

The garden was certainly beautiful, but what impressed me most was the massive 20m wall of the dam that stretched for about 3KM. Unfortunately, we could only marvel at it from just down the wall, as anything beyond it was off-limits. We stayed there long enough to see the hordes of people who came by the thousands to watch the fountain display with the wall as the backdrop but we were too tired to join them despite the tour guide’s insistence (watching the fountain display required us to walk some distance away, on a bridge across the Kaveri River and judging from the continuous trickles of people that walked on the bridge – it was certainly a sardine-packed audience that we did not want to be a part of). I promised the guide that I’d go and join the audience if I were to go there again – if ever.

 The highlight of the whole trip to Mysore was certainly our tour to the Mysore Palace – which granted Mysore the title of the City of Palaces. Joining the hordes of people who probably came from all over India, the palace certainly magnified the fact that India is certainly a place of architectural and monumental wonders. The construction of the palace was commissioned by a Krishna Raja Wadiyar IV to replace the old palace which was destroyed by fire during a wedding in 1896.

If the grandeur of Taj Mahal lies in the simplicity of its design and the macabre story behind the commissioning of its construction, the Mysore Palace’s certainly lies within the sophistication and intricacy of its architectural features and designs. I couldn’t help but noticing some European – probably a combination of Gothic and Roman influences in the architectural features – which came as a no surprise as I found out deeper in my Google search that the architect was a British. I wish the fire that destroyed the old palace never happened – or rather – the wedding during which it was caught in fire never took place so that the architectures would have been more Indian. Heh.  

I could spend the whole day marvelling at the beautiful columns, the wall paintings and the carvings but of course we had to keep moving on. The trickles of people on the long lines wouldn’t permit us to stay around for too long – but of course there was always time to take photos. In fact, I remember taking dozens and dozens of them I don’t even know where they are now. LOL.  

The first standing structures that immediately caught my eyes when I first arrived in Mysore had come from a church which – after a little bit of Googling – was apparently the St. Philomena’s Cathedral. Standing at 53m in height, there is no way one can avoid noticing the twin spires that jot out from the church even from a long distance way. Making my way into the church, it was surprisingly smaller that it looked from the outside.

They were obviously busy doing up the decoration for the upcoming Christmas and most of the space was cordoned off hence the brief entry. The church must have been repainted from its original colours, so it looked quite new with some Disney-looks which was different from most other churches that were built during the colonial times in other countries that I’ve been to where the original paints (or rather no paints) are kept intact to maintain their old and dilapidated looks.

But of course, of all the places that I’ve been to all throughout my visit to Mysore, the streets were certainly my favourites. After a long hiatus from travelling, it felt so good to be back in the dusty and noisy streets of India. They might not be as busy and noisy as those streets that I’ve been to in say- New Delhi or Varanasi, but they are still very much the kind of streets in India that I had really longed to be back to for quite some time. There was always something to see and watch and be mesmerized with somewhere around the corner.

There was this bazaar street called Dubai Center (not sure if that was the real name) that we kept coming back to several times all throughout our stay in Mysore. It was a street bazaar with shops selling arrays of clothes and garments including Sari, Silk-wears and Muslim attires.

Looking for good food was obviously not a problem at all. Mysore is populated with a significant number of Muslims so looking for Halal and no-vegetarian food was also not a problem. In fact, I ate more that I did in my previous trips to India so with the Christmas and New Year were very much just down the road, I had every reason to be worried about my diet and body weight. I noticed how Mysore lacked the street food that I’d see in abundance in New Delhi, Jaipur and Varanasi so it was safe to say that hawking street food doesn’t seem to be a culture in this part of India.

Returning to Malaysia was quiet a hassle, with a delay of the flight from Bangalore to Kuala Lumpur by at least 4 hours and we missed our connecting flight back to Kota Kinabalu.  I had to stay overnight in Kuala Lumpur before I caught a flight back to KK where Christmas frenzy was waiting for me.

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A Year Through

SO, it’s been more than a year since I moved to KK. It has been a mixture of likes and dislikes – but one thing for sure is that – I still miss my life back in KL. KK is nice, I gotta give that one to it, but I just think there is a lack of vibes that I really enjoyed back in KL. I’m not really a big fan of sea views and beaches, and I can easily count the number of times that I’ve come down to the beach with my 10 fingers. I am more of a mountain person, and yet I’ve only been to the mountainous Kundasang a couple of times all throughout the full year that I’ve been in Sabah thus far.

The foods are OK, at least there are more choices than the last time I was based in KK about 15 or so years ago which was quite a bit of struggle for me. But then, I’m not really a foodie person, at least not one that really seeks for variety. I still keep going back to the same restaurants, ordering the same foods and be content with them. I still go to Old Town White Coffee A LOT, ordering between Nasi Lemak, Curry Mee, Pan Mee and toasted breads – and ALWAYS with Hazelnut Coffee. I was disappointed when the Old Town White Coffee franchise that I used to go to when I was staying at Taman Melawati back in KL was suddenly shut down for good, but was immensely delighted when I found out a new franchise had been opened just down the road from where I stay now – on the very day when I reported for work in KK.

Looking at the positivity that I gained from moving over to KK, things have been so damn convenient. For one I can always go back to my mom during weekends – an opportunity that I’d been deprived of for most of my life (was based in the Peninsula half my life!). I try to go back to my hometown every other weekend – because there are times when I just feel like staying around at my rental home in KK and do absolutely nothing. I mean, it’s always been my favourite activity – staying around and do nothing. Then to add something extra to the convenience, my office had recently been relocated to a location very close to my rental house. It is very much within a walking distance, although I still use my motorbike to go to work most of the days. I mean, the last time I had an office located within a walking distance from my house was about 12 years ago when I was based in Sandakan for about 4 years. After battling through the traffic jam on almost a daily basis back in KL, this feels almost surreal really.

KK as a whole is a very leisure city. It is flanked by the range of green hills to the East and South China Sea to the West.  Staying in Likas area surely adds something extra to the convenience. I can always run to the hills right from home or go to the beach where there is plenty of jogging tracks with beautiful sea views. I definitely had all the beautiful hills right in the neighbourhood back in KL, but not the seaside jogging tracks. Cycling around – a hobby that I had just picked up so recently – is also very conveniently easy to do.

After spending so many years staying at a double-storey semi-detached bungalow house back in KL – which was complete with a compound that is large enough to do some farming – there is no way I could go back to staying at a non-landed house of residence. The average monthly rent here in KK is not cheap, in fact it is safe to say that it is higher than those in KL, so renting a landed house is definitely costing me a bomb. But then, as I age (ehem!), convenience has become the key-word of highest priority. Back in KL, it’d take me at least an hour to battle through the traffic before I reached the office. Here in KK, I can reach the office within a couple of minutes with my motorbike from home. So yeah, it really is a convenient life when it is seen from this one angle but working environment is definitely another angle that I’d rather spare for another post.

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Lake Kenyir

If you have just tuned in, this post is a sequel to my previous two posts – An Inter-state Solo Ride to the North East and Driving On : Jeli and Kota Bharu.

The road trip from Kota Bharu to Lake Kenyir took longer than I had expected. I called to a Kenyir Eco Resort, the very first name of resort that came up when I googled “Accomodation at Lake Kenyir” (or something) and the owner offered to give me a room for RM250 per night. He said something about floating resort, so I really thought it was one of those houseboats that I knew were quite popular at Lake Kenyir. Then as I wheeled off further and further towards and later into the state of Terengganu, it suddenly came to me what if there’d be no food at the boathouse – or that I’d be there too late into the evening when the kitchen was already closed, or there was no (open) grocery store at the lake from where I could buy some food at least to get me through the night.

I tried to find somewhere where I could stop to buy some food but all the shops that came around seemed to be close. Then it came to me that it was a Friday – which is kind of a weekend break for the states of Kelantan and Terengganu. It was quite a relief when I finally found a 7-11, and I didn’t hold back on the food. In fact, I was quite sure they’d get me by for at least a week.

It must be around four in the evening when I finally arrived at the jetty. The parking area was huge and largely unoccupied, probably because the whole country was still struggling to recover from the pandemic. My eyes were instantly caught by the newly built bridge that provides easy access from the mainland to Poh Island – one of the so many islands all over Lake Kenyir. It was so new it was not even open for public use yet.

The parking area was huge, and was largely unoccupied. I parked my car and headed straight down to the jetty where a boat from Kenyir Eco Resort was waiting to take me across the lake – to the floating Kenyir Eco Resort itself. There was some kind of great feeling to be cruising across an open lake. And the air was so fresh, refreshing and somehow – liberating.

Kenyir Eco Resort that I found out was more of a cluster of floating cabins. They were almost wholly painted in pink – which gave the resort some striking presence amongst the greenery and dark blue waters. I didn’t see it as a resort – not quite – but more of a cabin chalet. I was there on the very first day of Terengganu’s re-opening of its leisure and tourist spots to public so I had the resort all to myself!

The room was spacious, at least for somebody who was there all by himself. After all, it was meant to accommodate up to 4 people. In the middle of the cabin cluster was a pair of netted enclosures, probably intended for fish cage farming. Of course, the central part of the cluster is the dining area when I’d have my meal served 3 times a day – all included in the fee. The cluster is connected to the land by a floating walkway so I could always go back to the land whenever I wished to.

The resort was operated by a local Malay guy. He was helped by young lady – who he introduced as one of his three wives. They had a male worker who was paid to take care of all the handy chores.

My whole stay at Kenyir Eco Resort was very much relaxation-oriented. I spent most of the time slouching on a chair, either reading a book or staring away at the serenity of the lake. Sometimes either the resort operator or the worker would come to have a chat with me. In their excitement to have a fresh conversation with somebody new – an opportunity that they have probably been deprived of since the pandemic began – our conversation would drag on longer that I had wanted to every time.

I actually enjoyed the me-time very much that I decided to stay longer at the resort than I had intended to. I took time to make my way off to the land and visited a waterfall as per recommended by the resort operator. What I thought would be a walk in the park turned out to be more adventurous than I had expected. Getting off the floating walkway, I was instantly serenaded by the beauty of the lake as I looked down from a high standing point. It really was breath-taking.

I went uphill along an asphalt road, until I found a sign post that marked the beginning of the trail to the waterfall. It really was quite a hike from there on, up a concrete walkway with rest huts in places. The place looked so abandoned, probably because it was hardly visited by the public since the movement control order was enforced. Leaves were strewn all along the walkway and man-made trash tumbled from a trash bin. It suddenly struck me that I had the place all to myself and there was not a single other soul around but me. I continued hiking, until I found the said waterfall. The waterfall was smaller than I had expected, but it was beautiful nevertheless.

I wish I could stay longer, but the silence of the forest was killing me, and I had to keep brushing aside the thought of some entity watching over me from a distance or something. It was such a relief when I returned to the openness of the asphalt road, and later to the hugging comfort of the cabin room.

I would be there for another night before I had to say good bye to the cabin resort. I woke up early in the morning so that I could watch the lake welcoming the first rays of the sunrise. It was such a mesmerizing sight that I’d surely remember for a very long time. Then it was time to leave, and the boatman took me to a little tour to get a close look at the new bridge. Looking so gorgeous that takes the shape of a sailing boat, it would without doubt become an iconic structure for Lake Kenyir, if it was not already was.  

Back on the solid land later, and later on the road, I had one last look of the beautiful blue spread of Lake Kenyir before returning to my long long ride back to KL. The lake was certainly the highlight of the whole trip and I was so glad that I stopped by, knowing that it would be my very last road trip out of KL before moving off to Sabah a few weeks later.  

It was certainly a great ending to the very long list of outstation trips that I went to all over the Malaysian Peninsula in my 10-ish years of residing there. If there was ever a chance, I’d definitely want to come back to this beautiful beautiful lake of Kenyir.

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